Sumo Saturday

Sumo is something on most peoples bucket list if they come to Japan. It is a classic image that pops into your head when you think of Japanese culture. However actually finding a tournament, or even a local practice, is harder to come by. So this year I decided to use a ticket buying website to secure some great seats for the March tournament in Osaka. Held at the Osaka prefectural gymnasium many sumo stars from around Japan, and other parts of the world, compete for the grand championship. Sarah and I took the bus down on Friday night and stayed at Toyo Hostel which boasts some of the cheapest rates you’ll find in Osaka, around ￥1600 a night for a private room. The downside is that there is no heating unit at all, so even with four blankets I was cold. It’s also a hostel so it’s crazy loud from around midnight to 2am. Saving money trumps noise for me though, so I was happy.

We had bought tickets for one of the first weekends of the tournament, and for ￥8,000 we secured stadium seats for the battle. The gymnasium has special box seats as well that feature four pillows in a small square, so you have to sit seiza the entire time. We tried to get those tickets but they sell out instantly. Honestly any seat in the arena is OK as it probably only holds 3-4 thousand people, and having a seat was more comfortable in the long run. If you can get a coveted seat near the wring good luck to you, at least three times the sumo stars fell into the laps of fans, crushing their programs and fingers!! The tournament starts early in the morning, but the bigger matches don’t start until around 4pm, so on Saturday we showed up around 2pm. There were fans lined up outside hoping to catch a glimpse of their favorite wrestlers and as we made our way inside we saw many women in traditional kimono. Surprisingly sumo is a quiet event, with the crowd only politely cheering. I was anticipating the antics of a Canadian hockey game, but of course the Japanese even do sports politely!! Anyways towards the last few matches of the day the crowd was really hyped up and every seat was full. It was really easy to follow along with and is definitely something I would recommend for anyone in Japan.

Another weekend in Osaka meant shopping at Amemura and of course indulging in the Osaka specialty of okonomiyaki. We stumbled upon a small place right underneath Glico Man. It looked a bit shady but had no line up and when we went inside we were surprised at the upscale atmosphere. If you are in the Glico Man area check out the restaurants along on the river, they tend to be less crowded.

On Saturday night I was lucky enough to run into an old friend who is working in Tokushima now. We met in England at a Bible school and lived in Poland together for a few months. She is a fellow Canadian and it was really awesome to meet up again in a new place! She brought her boyfriend and we headed to DomaDoma for dinner and drinks. I really love Doma Doma as it has a huge menu and their nomihoudai course is only ￥1050 for two hours. It is ridiculous that one beer in a Canadian restaurant costs almost as much. It was a really fun night and great cap to a wonderful sumo filled weekend.

Pomp and Circumstance and all that

So last week was the graduation ceremony here for the 3rd grade students. It was, as per usual, a freezing cold ceremony coupled with a last moment of seriousness for these students. In Japan the graduating students do not get dressed up, in fact they can't even wear a headband or paint their nails. Heaven Forbid.
Anyways after an hour of speech and bowing the students filed out to a lot of clapping and were finally free! They went to their respective homerooms and received their graduation papers and that is when the fun begins. Most students here spend time participating in club activities, and the younger club members welcome the graduating seniors with gifts, cheers and excitement. There is a lot of yelling and screaming and general merriment and it rocks. The students don't know at that point if they have been accepted to a university yet, but for the first time in almost their entire lives they are free from the rigorous structure of the Japanese school system. They are almost carefree!! I met one student who told me of his plan to attend a university in Florida! I love that even in the smallest town, in the least populated prefecture there are students who can see beyond their piece of the world.

Following the graduation the school goes into lock down mode for two days as entrance exams are administered. Then the marking follows. During this time teachers are not allowed to use their cellphones or internet at work (seriously) and we spent Friday afternoon marking for 5.5 hours straight. I worked a 12 hour day and remembered why I never want to be a nurse and work such crap shifts :) It was an alright experience, and I was honoured to be included as the ALT is almost never included. However I made a few mistakes and had a teacher comment that, "you must be tired". Kind of embarrassing, however I tried my best. This Monday we have to triple check all the tests once again, and then the results are submitted to the board of education. I love being included, but I am not sad to be finished with marking. Some of the mistakes they are willing to ignore are baffling to me. I am only the expert when they want, so sometimes the English is less than perfect.

This weekend was a relaxing one after all the marking madness. I had a dinner with CJ and Ryan on Saturday night, went jogging, stocked up on fresh food for the week and shared a coffee date with Mercedes this afternoon. I had a scone and latte, and with the sun pouring in I felt truly relaxed and ready to embrace the last 5 months here. It is hard to say bye, hard to face the reality of returning home to the unknown. However I also realize that I have been so blessed these past two years. I get to teach full time, live in an exciting part of the world and travel consistently. What a cool life.

What to pack for the JET Programme

This is the time of year when JETs will begin to find out details about their placement. Location, location, location. In Tokyo or Osaka everything is available from Tony Roma's to The Gap. In Tottori, there isn't even a Starbucks. Before I got here to Tottori I was notified by my pred through email only once, and it was as brief as brief can be. He literally emailed me the last weekend before I left for JET orientation in Tokyo. I was a wreck waiting around to hear from him.If your pred wont respond to emails and doesn't contact you in a timely way then bug the BOE. You are moving to a foreign country and you deserve to know what you can expect!! Be polite, but explain that you didn't hear from your pred yet...nudge, nudge. 

Although JETs are supposed to leave the apartments empty mine came full of everything under the sun. From Hello Kitty Christmas ornaments, to books about the legal system. I didn't want half the stuff my pred left. Make sure you agree to what they are leaving and get specifics. My pred was too lazy to clear out the space so he left me with a bunch of junk to clear out myself.

The biggest favor you can do yourself is to ask your pred to give you a specific list and then figure out a way for you to buy the stuff you want. If you are in a city like me there are shops everywhere, so you may want to set up your flat in your own way. However in the true inaka having some stuff to start will help you out big time!

When I packed for JET I was really worried and tried to pack my entire life into 2 large suitcases, 1 carry on and a back pack. I overpacked. I brought ridiculous things like tape and paper clips. Don't forget you are moving somewhere where you have access to everything you would at home, it will just be different. You can buy shampoo, deoderant and toothpaste here. School/Office supplies as well. If you are taller than average or have big feet you will run into problems, but in terms of everyday essentials you will be ok! The best things I packed were:

1. Shoes for all seasons (your school may require inside shoes too!)

2. A small steamer. Everything in my suitcase was a crinkly mess when I stepped out of the plane in Tokyo. Your first impression shouldn't be a mess. However if your shower is big enough hang stuff up in there with the hot water on and boom! Nicely pressed. (I just heart my steamer!!)

3. Food from Home. If you are a picky eater, or just like tastes from home, then bring one or two items to have around for the first couple of days. I quickly realized there was no good peanut butter to be found, and before I found the Japanese Costco I only had my Kraft crunchy to tide me over.

4. Omiyage. If you come bearing gifts the people will love you. Bring something unique, or edible.
No one wants a pencil with the word CANADA emblazoned over it. Seriously. I brought loonies and twoonies to hand out as prizes to students as well.

5. Book(s). If you are in the inaka, or even a small city, you may still not have access to English books. My city has four or five bookstores within walking distance...but ZERO English titles. So bring a book or magazine to tide you over. Of course Amazon.jp and The book depository are fast and efficient, so if you don't have room don't panic. 

6. Photos. Photos are fun to show your students (especially with little to no Japanese) and they will make you feel better when the first moment of 'where. am. I' sets in.

7. Money, Money, Money. Bring as much as you can. Don't try to rely on a credit card, it won't work most places. You may not get paid for 2-3 weeks and you will have to fork over for a lot of things up front, like an inkan and welcome parties. I brought about $1,500 CDN and it ran out pretty fast with set up costs (internet, cell phone, appliances, etc.)

The biggest thing to remember is that you are moving to Japan, not the Amazon rainforest. You will have access to 24/7 combinis that sell everything under the sun and you should be able to get a cell phone within a day or two of arriving. I was so stressed before I arrived, and while some of the stuff I packed was useful, I kind of lost sight of the fact I was moving to a country with shopping malls and heading into a job that paid well. I was too worried about packing all my cardigans to stop and think that, hey! Japanese people wear cardigans too...

 

Good luck packing!

Tokyo,Tokyo

Last weekend I had the chance to pop over to Tokyo for work. Pshhh, work consisted of 4.5 days in Tokyo, with only two spent at a conference. The conference itself was fairly interesting. I got to wear my suit again, which I literally NEVER wear, and I caught up with some JETs who left Vancouver with me way back 1.5 years ago. There were some motivational speakers and it left me feeling rejuvinated. I am headed back to Canada in 6 months, but I have gained valuable skills here. I am looking forward to seeing how I can use it to get a great job in the ESL market back home.

Anyways. TOKYO!! This weekend happened to fall right before Valentine's day and the 11 month anniversary of D and I, so it was a fun one:)
First things first we stayed with AirBnB, at an apartment in Roppongi Hills. The area was convenient and nice, but the flat was disgusting!! It didn't have a window, was super dirty and still cost us $130 each. I was so unimpressed. I know it is hit and miss, but this place was a huge miss. Aside from that the location was great. We spent the Saturday night at a mexican joint for a friends birthday. It was so-so as far as Mexican, but since Tottori has nothing to be had in that area I will take it! Following dinner D and I ended up at a bar called Medusa, outside Shinjuku station. It was amazing. Open every night until 4am it is atrociously expensive and is home to vaulted ceilings, giant glass chandeliers and three resident sharks. It was a smoky, expensive atmosphere, with some bottles on the menu going for well over $10,000! Probably also a place where Yakuza frequent, but who can pass up sharks?!

Sharks!!!

The next day Dan planned a whole special time for us. To start we headed past Roppongi Hills to a great lookout of the city, and of Tokyo Tower!!! Next D took us to a little restaurant called Ft. Lauderdale. The breaky menu was exquisite and included refillable coffee(unheard of in Japan!)

From there we headed to Odaiba island. This island has a ton of fun stuff to do and see, and is also a great spot to catch one of the boat cruises that can take you to different spots of Tokyo. We wandered in one of the malls, but skipped walking outside due to the heavy rain. I managed to catch a picture of the statue of liberty tho! It is a great photo op on a brighter day :)

Our boat didn't leave until about 2:30, so we stopped for Hawaiian lunch first!! It was amazing :) 

Lady Liberty

Bubble tea!! 

The boat tour was so relaxing, and by the time we got off at Akusakusa an hour later the rain had mostly cleared off and the hazy mist was burning off. We spotted a Tullys and grabbed some coffee and enjoyed the view of Tokyo Tower. It was so romantic! 

Next we decided to head to Akihabara, which is the entertainment and electronics area of Tokyo. The walk was about 3km, but we decided it would be more fun to wander the back streets then fight through the subway. If you are up for walking then Tokyo is a perfect city for it! Plus if you eat as much as us it's a good idea ;)

We saw the largest temple in Tokyo and popped into the largest electronics store in the world. We also saw the AKB48 cafe, and then we finally headed back to Shibuya for the next part of our romantic date. Dan had managed to get us into one of the Alice in Wonderland themed restaurants!! It was so fantastic and magical We literally walked through a story book page to enter the restaurant and were given cute ears to don for the meal!! It was so thoughtful and sweet. Definitely more for me than him, but the food and drinks were tasty! If you want a fun experience I definitely recomend it! You will feel like you are somewhere totally different, and the atmosphere is relaxing and fun. 

My bunny!

The waitress, AKA 'Alice'

In the days that followed we had the chance to experience more of Tokyo, enjoying coffee shops, fun restaurants, cheap happy hours and laughs with old friends. We even had the chance to meet up with a friend from University who is a head hunter in Tokyo now, that was a blast! Tokyo is such a fun city, but so overwhelming. It is nice to be back in the simple familiarity of Tottori!

Foodie.

I love cafes. I love coffee. and on the weekends I LOVE going out to eat. Little cafes, izakayas, foreign food, etc. etc. I will try it! I have been to my fair share of Tottori restaurants and this post serves as a small review of a few I was at recently. Take from it what you will and go out and stuff your face! Basically you can find all these spots on Google Maps, and all are within 15 minutes on foot from Copo Hestia.

Chocolate lava cake. Runs about 1000円. At a great little bar called Mobs. Open til 2 or 3 am just past the bridge on wakasakaido. Enjoy! 

OK this was at cafe source, which is also on Wakasakaido, and always great! On Sundays they do an all you can eat cake (for real) so go there. Just go, run!! OK the meal you are seeing above includes a bread platter, a small(!!) cheese fondue and two dinner entrees  I got a hamburger steak and D got ribs and fries. The hamburger steak is pretty good, but do not be fooled it is not a real steak. That doesn't exist in Japan, unless you are in Kobe, but that is another post. Anyways the whole meal, including four beers, was under 6000円!! Not bad at all. 

This is at PJs, a legit Indian restaurant just behind Copo Hestia. A lot of JETs whine about PJs suggesting it is 'too expensive'. Basically you get what you pay for. So the curry is about 900円 and then naan or rice is an additional 250円 and if you want a lassi that will put you back about 400円. Basically 20 bucks for an insane meal. The curry is spicy! Be warned! Ask for a low spice level unless you are brave, oh and go for the naan! Oh, do not get the beer on tap. It is old beer in a gross machine that isn't cleaned. I have made that mistake. twice. Do.Not.Do.It!!

So the above picture is at Birds Nest, an amazing cafe just off a side street, behind Cafe Nee.  I normally get the stuffed sandwhich (I have pics of it in older posts). The prices are reasonable and the location is great. My only complaint is that the place is seriously quiet. Like a library. A delicious, and silent, library. Come with a book, not someone who is particularly loud :)

Anyways on S's recommendation I ordered the ice cream cup. It is 400円 and you choose a cookie and a flavour of ice cream. Badda bing, badda boom you get a Japanese style parfait! Delic.  I paired mine with a hot chai.

OK so back to Cafe Nee! It is a favorite spot for most people around here. Other than the CD on repeat they have a great atmosphere. The above picture shows the brunch set. It doesn't ever change much and includes a hot drink, all for 800円. Gets me every time, amazing deal! 

Last but not least is a blurry pic of Dan and I with that epic pancake. It comes from Sunaba coffee, which is just across from the station on the main road. It was amazing! There is ice cream underneath that whipped cream. It will give you diabetes. Eat it! I think it was about 1000円.

That is it. Basically I love food. I also love the cheap prices and happy restaurants in Japan.

Gyoza Goodbye

Last Sunday I was invited to a going away dinner for a student from Malaysia. He was a cool kid, and a fluent English speaker so we chatted on a regular basis. The girl hosting the party is a gem. We met in my first days at school and she has always been a pleasure. Her English is superb, partly stemming from living in Beijing for a while, and she has traveled to Vermont before for exchange. Anyways long story short I was invited to a small dinner party and I didn't know what to expect. I was met at the station by a small group of giggling girls and we headed off to Yo's house. Once there we got to work making Gyoza from hand!! Everyone thought it was really hilarious how I made them...I honestly didn't think mine were bad at all but I think it was the whole 'laugh at the gaijin' thing. Anyways we made gyoza for about an hour so by the time dinner rolled around we had enough gyoza to feed a small army. In addition to our amazing gyoza we had chicken, fruit salad(courtesy of moi), a platter of sushi rice and some other odds and ends. Oh, and for dessert we had hand made sponge cake and some tarts made by one of the students! After the amazing dinner (so stuffed) we sat around and played Karuta, a famous card game in Japan. It is really difficult so we played some simplified version. Was an amazing night and I was so blessed to have been included. Some days I feel like I am not appreciated at school, by the students or staff. Then I get invited to house parties and spend my night laughing with students who seem genuinely interested in English and the silly foreign girl they got as their ALT. 

Let's make gyoza!

The wonderful Yo! 

Seriously. Amazing rice/sashimi fusion

The gang!! Under the kotatsu. 

Satoshi cutting the cake. so delish.

Kawaii and card games!

A Tottori Winter

Back in Japan for the rest of my contract. I have just under 7 months to fulfill my Japan bucket list items. Which at this point include surviving another summer season without melting and seeing professional sumo wrestlers do their thing.

Going home for Christmas was one of those things that left me with the feeling of ‘I don’t wanna go back…’ at the airport. However upon returning to my teeny, tiny mansion (the ironic Japanese word for an apartment) I was struck by the realization that this next 7 months (plus 3 weeks travelling) will be some exciting times. I already have trips planned for Okayama, Tokyo (twice) and Thailand!!

Last Monday I started off my year back with the traditional greetings. I learned a new one too: Kotoshimo yoroshiku onegaishimasu. I think I impressed some staff here by employing two of the set phrases they drone at each other once the New Year begins. I guess I can’t relate because we don’t put the same emphasis on the phrase ‘happy new years’ in Canada. At home it is more kosher to ask how someone’s winter vacation was than to just bleat ‘happy new year’s!’ at them and bow. Oh well, when in Japan.  

The school life here ebbs and flows, so for the first two days back I was busy studying Japanese and researching future jobs in the esl world. The second two days back I was marking 600 student essay responses on the achievement tests. Sound overwhelming? It was, but I am a fast marker and thankfully I was able to finish most of them before the weekend hit. One stand out moment of the first week back was eating a traditional new years meal!! The school nurse, who is also a great friend, made me homemade zoni (a red bean soup with mocha) and cherry blossom tea (salty. salty. salty) It was such a fun way to experience a part of the Japanese culture!
I made it through the first few days back and then last Thursday night meant the arrival of a special someone from Hokkaido. The winter there is absolutely brutal, so D is staying for over a week! In a long distance relationship longer than 4 days is something to get excited about!!  We didn’t make too many set plans, but one thing we planned for and nicely executed was our own Christmas. My hello kitty tree was decked out in candy canes and we sipped mulled wine, had a fancy meal at the French restaurant in town and exchanged Christmas gifts with Michael Buble filling my room. Dan is the best and got me a cute little fitbit as one of my Christmas gifts. I love exercise and tracking my steps, calories, km’s so it was a totally cute gift that I have already put to good use. Plus it is pink!! We both love coffee and trying new places to eat so we have hit up some favs and some new spots including, Birds Nest café, La Bar, St. Marcs, The Green Room, Kohane coffee and an Okonomiyaki place and Jupiter (many times, many foreign foods)

cold runs. brrrr. 

Dan and I didn't just eat out tho- we also enjoyed a ton of walking and two jogs (one in snow!) and a few nights he cooked! He put togethor a delicious shepards pie for me that was amazing. 

Today I turned the big 2-7 so last Friday a few of us went out for an evening of drinks and food at Doma Doma. I went there last year for my birthday and it is conveniently located and well-priced, plus it has the ever famous nomihoudai that all Jets would agree is an important part of the experience. We laughed a lot and after a few good hours a few of us set out to find a quieter spot for some dessert. We decided to try out Mobs, which is a bar that apparently used to be the gaijin hangout. The dessert was delicious and we had a good time mellowing out after the nomihoudai ruckus at dinner.  

winter drink with the cutest model, Sarah

Today D and I went out for brunch and then we went to the cat cafe! Cat cafe kitty blue is one of my favourite places in Tottori. It is a quiet, sweet atmosphere where fluffy cats and sassy cats and every kind of cat in between live. Some of them jump on top of you and others want nothing to do with you (in good cat fashion) but it always makes me so happy. Anyways D has never been to a cat cafe so I think he was surprised by how much he enjoyed it, and how he literally had the cats eating treats out of his hand! 

birthday feast of champions!

I am so blessed as last night he took me out to cafe source for a birthday dinner feast, and gave me a beautiful pair of earrings he chose for me in Texas and slippers that I might have tried to steal from him last time. So he bought me my own pair :)  
Even though I am heading to Tokyo in three weeks and will see him again, I hate thinking about how we have to have another 3 weeks apart. This will be my fourth time in Tokyo though and I am pretty excited. I am hoping to take a day trip to see Mt. Fuji and maybe also check out a        wonderfully weird theme café!!